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Strawberries: How To Grow And Care (The Definitive Guide)

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Few fruits are as simple to grow as strawberries, but it helps to know a couple of planting tricks. Obey the simple principles of strawberry cultivation and you will feast on them from early spring to late autumn.

Strawberry Plants Or Seeds?

One may be tempted to begin from seed when determining how to grow Strawberry plants. But the optimum method is young plug plants or established runners (bare-root strawberries).

In the ground young plants will fruit the summer after sowing, offering a quicker route to fruit than growing from seed as this can take over a year to go from seed to first harvest. They are perennial plants which are propagated by runners and can come in bundles of 25 to 100 plants. Which makes them a cheaper way to get fruit.

Types of Strawberries

type of strawberry plant
  • Everbearing strawberries yield two smaller harvests; the first crop in June (or sooner in the South) and the second in late summer. * ‘Seascape’ and ‘Albion’*
  • June-bearing is the type of strawberry you are probably most familiar with-it produces the largest fruit and mass quantities. Limit of runners per mother plant in June-bearing versus ever-bearing types. Try ‘Chandler’ and ‘Honeoye’.
  • Day-neutral berries are not photosensitive at all and therefore, it produces some crops almost all summer long (in the hottest months they may slow down a bit). (If you’re planting a day-neutral breed, bump up to twice as many to get more than a handful of fruit.)

As well as the three main types you can grow wild strawberries, which fruit smaller but sweeter berries and make excellent edging plants and ground cover. Alpine strawberries are also a commonly grown wild strawberry type and fruit varieties such as Mignonette or Red Wonder are delicious. Unlike many other strawberries, alpines do not naturally produce runners and thus must be grown from seed. Planting As different varieties will ripen to peak flavor at different times, you’ll extend your cropping season by planting more than one kind of each type.

How To Propagate Strawberries

Strawberries are most often started from runners or divisions; it is not the approach to starting strawberries from seed. But starting from seeds is less expensive, if you don’t mind waiting. Sow indoor: 12-16 weeks before the last frost date, Transplant outdoor: after the last frost.

When To Plant Strawberries

The best time to plant is late summer to early fall where they can become established and produce a good crop the next year. For any who are reading with the intention of actually doing this, they thrive in soil that is planted while the sun is hidden behind clouds during March or April (as soon as one can work the ground). This gives plants a chance to acclimate to their new home before warm weather really sets in.

Where To Plant  Strawberries

The strawberry plants require full sun, so pick a sunny spot providing six hours or more of direct sunlight. The size of the crop and the size of the berries will depend on how much sun your plants get. In addition, some types bloom so early in the spring that the blossoms may be caught by a surprise late frost (unless you get lots of sun on your plants).

Strawberries Plant Spacing

If you’re not a lazy gardener you would let strawberry plants have 1.5 to 2 feet apart between them to spread and grow. It can for sure be squeezed down to one foot (31cm) in tight spaces as long as you frequently water and fertilize. For rows, keep 3 to 4 feet (about 1m) space between each row for strawberries.

How To Grow Strawberries From Seeds

One possibility is growing strawberries from seeds, but it is a time-consuming procedure as the plants take about a year to bear fruit. If you want to save seeds of strawberries for growing, be aware that the plants are hybrids — fruit will not come true from seed (unless it is wild strawberries or open-pollinated varieties). That said, there is a place to play with the notion of producing new types-many gardeners find it fun. If you are growing alpine strawberries they must be seed propagated.

To grow strawberries from seeds:

  • Plant strawberry seeds in a container of seed starting mix, in the spring or fall. There should be holes in the container.
  • Sprinkle the seeds evenly over the surface and gently press seeds into the mix, without covering with more compost.
  • Put a plastic wrap over the container and put it on a sunny windowsill or under the 12-14-hour-a-day light, provided by a grow light.
  • When the seeds have sprouted, which may take up to six weeks, feed the plants every two weeks with a very weak solution of fertilizer (half the strength you would use normally).
  • After the seedlings are more robust, thin them and repot them into individual pots with full strength fertilization.
  • Plant out the seedlings in a warm spot after about 6 weeks. Give them just a few hours each day and increase the time gradually as you transition them to a sunny spot.
  • Once they are adjusted outdoors, plant the seedlings in full sun and well-draining, slightly acidic soil. Before planting, mix in some fertilizer.
  • Giving them a good watering and then mulching around them with straw helps to keep water in and the fruits of the plant off the soil.

How To Care For Strawberry Plants

Best Soil For Strawberries

Strawberries grow best in rich, fertile soil that is slightly acidic and has a pH level of 5.7 to 6.5. It also needs to drain well. Regardless of your soil type (heavy clay, dense sand, whatever), amend it with compost (our first choice for most garden applications) or well-rotted manure and/or organic matter for holes when you plant. If your soil type is not good, then growing strawberries in raised beds or containers could be a better option so that you can have control over the soil mix.

Watering 

This is where the majority of confusion comes in when it comes to learning how to grow strawberries – watering.

Strawberries (Fragaria x ananassa) — Because strawberries have shallow roots, you will need to water them on the regular. Most of this will happen naturally if you live in a place where it rains regularly. But in any case, strawberries will need watering: when the rain is small in the hot weather most gardeners have to water strawberries. Water from the bottom to avoid wetting their leaves. Wet the soil, not the plant. Works best with drip or soaker hoses nearby.

How Often To Water Strawberries?

Strawberries should be watered every week, however in dry periods this needs to be more often. It will be helpful to water your strawberries every day when planting strawberries in high heat. As opposed to watering on a fixed schedule, feel around the soil to see if it’s dry. For this, insert your finger to a depth of two inches into the soil. Soil should feel dry if it goes up to your next set of watering. If it is too wet, wait a little longer. It is easy to overwater a plant and cause it to rot.

How Much Water Do Strawberries Need?

Strawberries should be watered 1-2 inches (approximately 2.5-5 cm) per week, either from rainfall or through a hose pipe. During hot dry weather, increase this to 2.5 inches (6cm) whenever you water. Daily check if it is dry in soil.

Fertilizing Strawberries

Strawberries are accustomed to being fertilized, so their ovaries develop better, and the result is a rich harvest of berries. Nitrogen is needed by nature when plants are making leaves for spring or in the late fall. The addition of compost or manure will help, before planting, to modify soil.

Best Time to Fertilize Strawberries

Fertilize: Feed strawberry plants a balanced fertilizer which they start growing new leaves. That typically occurs in early to mid spring. Give strawberries a second fertilization after they have finished fruiting. This encourages the plants to go into full runner mode, then go dormant for the winter and store up food reserves to produce a good crop the next summer.

How To Fertilize Strawberries

Choose a commercial 10-10-10 fertilizer (contains equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium). For a general rule, apply 1 pound (454g) of fertilizer per 20-foot (6m) row of strawberries. B. Line up D One After the Other At Base Of Each Plant And Water Bee Friendly Life-containing Bacteria_oriented Organic Fertilizer_invironmentally Safe Or, you could utilize organic fertilizers such as blood meal, fish meal or alfalfa meal.

Mulching Strawberries

Strawberry Mulch – One Or Two Times A Year Helps Strawberry Mulching Is Good For Several Reasons. During spring, three inches of straw mulched into the ground 2 inches deep around strawberry plants will prevent that would have sat beneath your fruit from resting directly on unpadded ground. If you need more you can simply tuck in a little cardboard or felt matting.

You can protect them from the new temperature during winter by applying a layer of mulch over the plants in late fall or early winter which is very good to winters as they experience cold climates. The foliage will flatten out, and after the first HARD frost you must mulch (they will produce more fruitful strawberries for you the following summer if they receive their first hard autumn frost before being mulched). Peel this back in early spring prior to putting down a new, thin layer under the foliage.

Protecting Strawberries From Birds

Birds are known to eat a lot of berries and they can do an awful lot of damage to a strawberry patch in no time. Protect strawberries with a net as soon as the first green fruits start to turn red. The fruit-laden stalks must be well positioned in the centre of the flower at right angles and short canes passed through this loop allow you to roll back your crop when it’s time to pick your strawberries.

How To Harvest Strawberries

Strawberries have to be picked red because they don’t ripen once picked. But we will have berries ripening at different times. So, inspect your plants every 2 or 3 days. Blueberries are best picked in the morning; that is when they are coolest.

If picking strawberries, be sure to remove a quarter of the stem, taking care not to damage things as you go. The best way is to pick up the stem on your thumb and forefinger, and gently tug with a twist. Eat them the day you make them – or for up to 3 days in the fridge. Note: they are amazingly eaten slightly warm. When you have a glut then here are lots of tasty fresh strawberries from the garden for all to enjoy.

How To Prune Strawberries

After you have picked the last of the strawberries of the season, cut back the foliage of plants to about 3-4 inches (7.5 to 10cm) above the crown. This will allow the plants to focus their energy on developing stronger roots and new growth for next year.

Thinning strawberries at the time of pruning will also clear out old plants to allow for more production capacity on a piece of land. Replace with runners from the older plants Always use sharp, sterilized hand pruners to prevent any damage to the plants as well as for stopping disease from spreading.

Strawberry Companion Plants

That is the age-old practice of companion planting – positioning plants near each other so they have reciprocal benefits. Some common strawberry companion plants also act as deterrents for pests, for shade on the ground or on a nearby tree, living mulch, and even enhance flavour.

Companion Plants for Strawberries:

  • Creeping borage, creeping thyme, dill heads (it keeps pests away), and a few other herbs such as coriander, mint and sage keep certain animals off the garden. In addition they draw in bees and other garden friendly insects that feed on soft bodied pests like aphids, thrips, scale, and caterpillars. Some herbs like borage can also help the plants remain stronger against disease and other pests as well as make your strawberries taste sweeter.
  • Soybeans fix nitrogen in the soil, acting effectively as a fertilizer for others to benefit.
  • Garlic and onions are two big.. yes you guessed it, PEST REPELLERS. Growing them near Strawberries can serve as deer decoys. Planting them by a pathway should detract from Strawberries being eaten by the pesky little foragers.
  • Lettuce and Spinach planted with strawberries can improve the yield of all three plants. It also camouflages when their leaves often hide the fruits from birds.
  • French marigolds and strawberries go hand in hand due to the strong scent which French marigolds give off (that helps scare off pests like greenfly and blackfly). They are additionally believed to be a root knot nematode repellent, which devastates the roots of strawberry plants.

Problems & Pests

It can be frustrating when plants run into problems, even when you are just learning how to grow strawberries. However, it may still provide a substantial harvest if you take the time to diagnose and solve the problem. Reducing strawberry insect pressure reduces problems. Companion planting is your first line of defense, but when strawberry plant pests are on a mission, you may wish to use organic control methods. Common Strawberry Plant Problems If not taken care of quickly, these garden problems could result in bad bean plants or even plant death.

  • Strawberry plant leaves curling is more likely the result of improper watering practices or temperature spikes, but in some cases it is due to a nutrient deficiency.
  • Inaccessible watering is the most common reason strawberry plant leaves turn brown. But a loss of whiskers along with other symptoms may indicate an underlying illness.
  • The yellowing on your strawberry is very likely due to a nutrient deficiency, make sure you fertilize with a complete fertilizer.
  • Those red leaves in strawberry plants may be symptomatic of a fungal infection – specifically, see-through red stele disease or strawberry leaf scorch. Although this option won’t kill the virus on contact, it may help to prevent its introduction by reducing the overall volume of dead plant material available for the vectors. Purchasing disease-resistant varieties and other good cultural practices like crop rotation, proper spacing, sanitation and watering practices should also minimize risk.
  • Black root rot of the strawberry is a serious disease that initially causes stunted runners and small berries. This means the roots will turn black or develop black patches if exposed. Before planting, make sure to check the roots of the plants are white and healthy. Remove and destroy plants demonstrating symptoms, and avoid replanting strawberries in the same area.
  • Cercospora leaf spot of strawberries is a fungal disease that affects plant vigor and yield. It starts with tiny purple spots on leaves that eventually become tan to whitish gray in the centers with purple borders. Leaf drop may also occur. Leaf spot prevention: control weeds in the bed area, plant with proper spacing between tomato plants; water soil not leaves, fungicide at bloom.
  • Usually, deformed strawberries are still safe to eat, but they can look less appetizing. Not enough pollination, frost damage may be at fault as well as insufficient nutrients
  • The white stuff is probably botrytis rot, a nasty fungal disease that can cause mold on strawberry plants. It likes to get wet, and is usually carried over from the previous year. The best way to avoid it is to stay on top of your weeds and remove any decaying material before the plants emerge in spring. Ensure the plants are sited in a well-drained, airy space and avoid planting where strawberries were grown for 3 years.
  • The small strawberry seeds are no doubt very sweet here they come from powdery mildew, it is mold-type fungus because these strawberries have been left to rot there so the bad fruit can not be seen. On affected leaves, prune them out and apply a fungicide. Plant strawberries in a sunny location with good air movement to help prevent powdery mildew
  • Strawberry Anthracnose disease overwinters in plant debris and is carried by weeds. The spores are primarily disseminated by splashing of water from infected plants. The entire plant, as a result, may dry out and die. Fruits may be affected. This disease can spread rapidly and destroy an entire plantation. Prevent it by planting only disease-resistant cultivars and rain watering the soil, not the plant. If you do, take them out and throw away all dead plants.
  • Wilt in Strawberry Plants: What is it? Plants infected will be less likely to survive long enough to bear fruits. Fumigation of the soil is the best way to kill it, but fumigation is not cheap. Preventing anthracnose is best achieved through classic crop rotation and not planting strawberries in areas previously affected.
  • Strawberries: Strawberries can rot on the vine, a symptom usually of a fungal infection. These prevail in extreme wetness and warm, humid weather, in particular wherever there is bad air-flow about plants.
  • What can cause no fruit on strawberry plants and no flowering of strawberry plants?
  • Infestation of pests such as aphids and scale bugs is likely to occur when ants find their way on the strawberry plant.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

  1. Are strawberry plants perennials?

Strawberry plants are perennials and, although they can live for quite a few years, they only stay productive for up to around three years. At this point you must replace plants with new runners- propagated from its parent plants.

  1. Do strawberry plants need full sun?

Most strawberry cultivars need a bare minimum of six hours of direct sunlight per day. There are shade-tolerant strawberries, however. These will probably be wild strawberries.

  1. How long do strawberries take to grow?

Strawberry seeds will bear fruit earlier; 2-3 months after planting. But it will take a lot longer if plants are grown from seed: perhaps a year.

  1. When is the best time to plant strawberries?

Sow early enough in late-winter or late-summer for fall reap.

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